Welcome to the Poor Man's Watch Forums - Watchmaking Tutorials http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/list.php?58Sun, 19 May 2013 07:27:18 -0400 Phorum 5.2.11 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,325434,325434#msg-325434 subjectsmiley80! subjectsmiley73! Rust removing >>> (25 replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,325434,325434#msg-325434

A memory shot from the PMWFerence 2006 in NYC - thank you Gregc, Mike_vroomy and Chuck for your gifts and generosity and also thank you Ted/TMK for bringing the items to NYC. And of course a big thank you to StefG who managed to book our Saturday dinner at Anthony Bourdain's brasserie at Park Lane. Last but not least, thank you Adam in NYC for the backlight Casio


And a watch shot with the still virgin knives

Due to the slim shape of the skinner, I have been storing it together with a Japan cutter, felt tip pens and other stuff in a drinking glass in what I thought a safe distance from the sink. Yesterday I checked upon all that stuff in the glass. The holder/clip from the Japan cutter was so rusty, I dumped it. It says STAINLESS STEEL on the Japan cutter, but as my daughter remarked, only on the body of the Japan cutter. She is going to be a lawyer obviously. I thought if the body of a Japan cutter says STAINLESS STEEL, it should include the clip.

Also a ball pen from the Swiss maker Caran d'Ache had a similar rusty clip. The Aluminum body of the pen was OK, but again, the clip was very rusty and needed to go.

Last item checked was the CASE knife (the slim one at the top). There was substantial rust damage on the blade's front (both sides) and on top of the blunt edge of the blade. Obviously its position was too close to the sink or the climate next to the sink was simply too damp.

Here is what I did to remove the rust and to apply a brushed finish. It is a knife that I use regularly, so I did not go and get the Dremel to buff it to factory polish. Proof that I am not a knife collector but rather a knife user.

Here is the de-rusting process in steps. Please refer to the pictures attached.

TOOLS
1. Bergeon rust remover. Note on the bottle: Product not destined for public. Toxic class 3. Avoid skin and eye contact, do not swallow.
2. CITO Weapons Oil, an Austrian product very popular here in Thailand. I use it regularly to combat rust. However in this case, the rust was too deep already. It's rather a cleaning and rust prevention oil then a rust remover, even it says so on the can
3. Cleaning cloth
4. Food bag wire strips
5. A magic sponge (that's what they call them in Hong Kong), a rubber block including diamond dust, one COARSE, one FINE (quite important to have both, if you are tinkering with watches)
6. Running water nearby to wash the Bergeon rust remover quickly from the fingers!

PROCEDURE
Step 1: I tried to soak the blade in CITO for an hour first. I always try to start with the "softest" product
Step 2: Not a chance with CITO, thus fetched the Bergeon No. 30496 remover. The manual says to put the watch movement for 2 minutes into a container filled with the rust remover and then rinse immediately.
Step 3: I did not want to waste and dispose of a large quantity of this rust remover in my sink. Bangkok has no water treatment, so I am careful what goes down the sink. Thus I wrapped the blade with a layer of cotton cloth, used the red wire strips to tighten the cloth around the blade and then poured the rust remover onto the cloth so the blade was soaked in it.
Step 4: Wait exactly two minutes and then be surprised how aggressive No. 30496 is. If you forget your stuff in that container or whatever you use to soak your item, then you might have shrunk it. The rust was gone, that was the good news. But also gone was the polished surface from the blade. The rust remover ate the top layer away, so the knife blade looked matte afterwards
Step 5: Start using the Magic sponge. I always use FINE (FEIN in the picture, German) first to see what kind of impact it has. Saw immediately that COARSE (GROB) is needed to apply a nice brushed finish to the blade. Then used the FINE magic sponge again and achieved a pretty good linear brushed finish.

Quote
RELEVANCE FOR WATCHES - E.G. REMOVING SCRATCHES FROM A WATCH CASE
Before you go and try to remove scratches from your watch case (with a linear brushed finish e.g. on the side of the case), use an old table knife with a polished blade and practice GENTLE LINEAR BRUSHING STROKES. It is really important that ALL of your brushing strokes are PERFECTLY PARALLEL AND FOLLOW THE EXISTING BRUSHING OF YOUR WATCH. If you look at the side of your watch case under a bright light and with a loupe, you will immediately see all brushing strokes that are not aligned. Imagine you are ploughing a field with a tractor. If you deviate from the straight line, the ploughing pattern will show this clearly. And you will have to "drive your tractor" over the non-parallel part a couple of time until your whole field shows nothing but parallel lines.
Back to watches: If you have to correct non-parallel brushing strokes, you will have to correct it by repeatedly applying parallel strokes until your non-aligned strokes have disappeared. And mechanically speaking, disappeared means that you have removed a part of the watch's surface. For an experienced eye, it will be very easy to spot non-parallel brushing strokes or parts of the correction attempt where too much brushing was applied. And you will probably notice it too, as we WIS tend to be fussy about imperfections
Facit: Practice a lot before you go after your expensive watch cases. Bracelets and clasps are normally easier to work on because they are straight. But still, practice is required as well. And of course, NEVER attempt this method on a plated watch case, be it gold plated or chrome plated brass (Russian watches). For these types of cases I am happy to refer you to our in-house guru Dave Murphy (MOD CENTRAL). Dave knows a lot more about polishing, brushing, filing, honing then I do


QUALITY OF THE WORK DONE
Of course to the experienced observer, the lines on the blade are not perfectly parallel. It is because the rubber will follow the edge of the blade towards the tip. And I did not feel like cutting myself. I think this is the most important part: a trained eye will immediately recognize a hand applied brushed finish. Under a loupe you will immediately see the brushing lines are not parallel.
For my knife I decided hand applied almost linear brushing to be OK. And actually I quite like the pseudo Damaskus effect the rust left on the blade. LAST PICTURE ATTACHED BELOW

I also decided not to go any deeper with the COARSE magic sponge. After all, I will have to do this procedure in the future again. And the pseudo Damaskus pattern on the blade will remind me that this blade will have to be checked again and the procedure eventually repeated.

NOTE
A parent guided icon has been added to remind children that knives can be pretty dangerous. However on the "Poor Man's" Watch Forum we will never have a knife ban in watch pictures or in off-topic posts. We know that our community knows the difference of a pocket knife and an assault knife and the context where they are used. To be very frank, I never really understood the ban of knives, especially pocket knives from watch forums. Pocket knives and folding knives are mechanical marvels.]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsThu, 02 Jun 2011 06:51:23 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,325347,325347#msg-325347 HOW TO drill additional lug holes (tissot band re-position) >>> (19 replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,325347,325347#msg-325347
Reto asked if I'd try a close up pic of my project and a little more depth as to how I pulled it off. Here goes....



The concept itself and in reality the execution is fairly straight forward, only the risk is significant subjectsmiley11! I wanted to add new springbar holes higer up on the lugs of my watch so that I could move the strap closer to the dial side of the case.

1. Remove the strap and carefully mark the new holes. I used a simple "jig" cut from a heavy 3x5 card, and made my marks based off of the current spring bar holes and the front edge of the case- so that the holes would have enough material to be secure, and not leaving the strap hanging off the front so to speak. My goal was to have the strap, after instalation, close to flush with the dial side- or a little below, and close to the case without much gap, . This conviently lined the center of the new holes up nicely with the back edge of the case- on one axis and the center of the existing holes on the other, so I had multiple landmarks to key off of. In actuality even afer carefully measuring, and marking with a fine tipped sharpie, I used plain old visualization to be sure they all looked right- and I may have been able to do as good a job just by "eyeballing" it, or using a straight edge to set up a 2- axis intersection. After all it's not like there a lot of real estate to work with!

2. Sit back and look at it oh about 100x and contemplate- do I really want to do this?

3. Tape off the edges of the lugs and check the alignment of the drill, to be sure I wasn't trying to put holes in at too much of an angle. I'm sure we can all picture the drill, when applied at an angle skating off and gouging just about anything and eveything- I know I did subjectsmiley13!

4. Mock everything up and go-over the "steps" 1 more time mentally.

5. Secure the watch head in a vise- or whatever just tight enough that you know you've got control of that piece.

6. Use a drill punch to mark the center of the desired hole, then check everything again. Center punches come in a huge variety, from nice spring loaded jobbies, to well- a nail. I started the marking by hand- and since the watch is a vintage piece without a hardend steel case I was in luck, I could actually press it in just the faintest amount. Then after confirming that I was actually putting the center in the center, I lightly tapped a deeper mark using a hammer, and then a slightly deeper one by using just a wee bit more force. Yet again the soft case was a real assest to this process.

7. Once the center mark was suffecntly deep to "hold" the drill bit I put the bit in the drill, checked it, and the "masking" of the lug edge. In order to minimize the drill angle (ideally 90 b/w drill bit and drilling surface, but a bit less in this instance) I had to have the smooth part of the bit shaft actuallytouching the lugs. Yikes, but really it helped make everything quite stable.

8. Look at everything one more time- at which point I was actually still struggling to remain paitent- at this point I felt good about it but still had to check subjectsmiley03!

9. Drill the holes, slowly at first, but if you've ever drilled metal you know that too slow dosent work either. I used a slice of tape on the bit shaft to act as a depth guage, so I wouldn't go to deep ~1/16"

10. Finish one with satisfaction, check paitence level, and repeat 3 more times. subjectsmiley03!



The new holes are the ones with the springbar in the photos- I couldn't get a decent pic so I added that for a marker. And obviously this isn't much a "pictoral" but I hope it at least gives an idea of the basic process.

Thanks for the inspiration guys!]]> Cleans Up Watchmaking TutorialsMon, 25 Mar 2013 14:24:57 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,261510,261510#msg-261510 Another way to GLUE a BEZEL INSERT(Beginner) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,261510,261510#msg-261510
How to REPLACE A SCRATCHED BEZEL INSERT (Talented Beginner, link to forum post)

In that article, Matt demonstrates the use of the G-S adhesive. I use the exact same product, when I am installing an insert into a bezel with a small ledge.
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In this article, I will demonstrate another type of glue. I prefer the following product, when the insert is being installed into an insert with a wide ledge. This style can be found in many Seiko Divers.

First off, do a trial fit of your bezel insert. If you are using an aftermarket insert, the size can vary by a few tenths of a millimeter. If your insert is too big, you can remove metal by sanding the edges slightly.

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This is my favorite product for this type of installation. It has a good strength, and it is waterproof. But when you need to remove your insert, it will let go.

I use a fine hobbyist brush to paint a line of glue on the back of the insert, and another line in the recess of the bezel.

Let the glue dry.

Install the insert into the bezel. With this glue, you get one chance! So, if you need to make alignment, do so carefully.

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This bezel is a non-indexed type. So I have installed the insert off the watch.
Use a soft cloth to press the insert into the bezel.
If you have glue "squeeze-out", the cloth will turn it into little glue-balls. These glue-balls will wipe up with the cloth, leaving a clean installation.


Next, install your bezel.]]> Anonymous User Watchmaking TutorialsTue, 30 Nov 2010 10:37:07 -0500 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,259510,259510#msg-259510 How to REMOVE/REPLACE a BEZEL with a WIRE RETAINER(Beginner) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,259510,259510#msg-259510Case Knife
Tweezers


First, you need to remove your bezel.

The best tool for this job is the case knife. The case knife is thin at the edge, but it is not sharp. This thin/not sharp combination should make it easier to avoid injuries, both to you, and your watch case.
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In this photo, the watchmaker is using the case knife to remove a case back. You will use the case knife in the same way, but under the bezel.

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Inspect the bezel retainer spring. These work best when they can lie flat. Here is an example of a bezel spring that is not able to lie flat. Use your tweezers to correct the spring, by gently bending.

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Try the bezel spring in the bezel groove.
The spring will work best if the corners are down in the groove, and the flats are visible. Again, you can use your tweezers to fine-tune your retainer spring.

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When you are satisfied with the shape of the retainer wire, try to install the bezel. Press it on, and give it a slight twist at the same time.

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Inspect the bezel. Is it on all around? Here is an example of a bezel that is seated only half-way around. Check for a gap between the bezel and the case.

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If your bezel will not seat properly, find out why! Usually, the wire retainer needs adjustment.
Try again. The bezel will be seated against the case all the way around.
]]> Anonymous User Watchmaking TutorialsTue, 23 Nov 2010 10:05:49 -0500 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,256338,256338#msg-256338 A comprehensive WATCH REPAIR GUIDE (Beginner to Advanced, link to commercial site) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,256338,256338#msg-256338www.esslinger.com], a commercial watch parts website. PMWF.com has not affiliation with that site

Watch Repair Guide]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsThu, 11 Nov 2010 16:37:36 -0500 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253464,253464#msg-253464 How to MAKE CUSTOM WATCH DIALS (Intermediate, link to forum post) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253464,253464#msg-253464How to MAKE CUSTOM WATCH DIALS]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSun, 31 Oct 2010 14:52:41 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253458,253458#msg-253458 How to MAKE SMALL ADJUSTMENTS to HAND SIZES (Intermediate, link to forum post) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253458,253458#msg-253458How to MAKE SMALL ADJUSTMENTS to HAND SIZES]]> Anonymous User Watchmaking TutorialsSun, 31 Oct 2010 14:46:31 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253456,253456#msg-253456 How to get WALMART to PRINT YOUR DIALS (Talented beginner) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253456,253456#msg-253456




Oops, time to go kayaking. Get your Mom to snap pics of you in the lake. Crop the hi-res photo to exactly 5x7 format.






Complain about the limited resolution of your printer. Also complain about the limited choices of paper. I know, let's make someone else print this, in their photo processor that costs a kazillion dollars.

Do some math. Try to figure out how big a dial will be in 5x7 format. Make another 5 percent smaller. Make another 5 percent bigger. Draw a square that you think will end up exactly 1" on a side.





Send the print over the internet to Walmart photo department at full resolution. Order 5x7 prints.
Get in the car and drive to Walmart. Pay them a buck for each print.




Get the print, and carefully measure the results with your calipers. Do some more math. Find out exactly what size to make your dials. I found out that my magic number was 3.3 percent bigger than I originally thought. Correct them, paste them to the same photo, and send it over the internet to Walmart again. Try some colors. Try letting the blue ripples of water come through the print.





Get back in the car and pick up your printed dials which are exactly the right size.





Experiment with this leather punch, and find the punch that looks the best as a date hole. Get out the scissors.





Do a bad job applying luminous material. Do three dials, pick out the best one, throw away the other two. Close enough for rock and roll!






Stick it on with the crutch of bad modders everywhere, dial dots.






Put it all back together.




oops. Time to go kayaking again.


.]]> Anonymous User Watchmaking TutorialsSun, 31 Oct 2010 14:40:40 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253313,253313#msg-253313 How to BUFF SCRATCHES FROM SAPPHIRE crystal (Beginner, link to post) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,253313,253313#msg-253313How to BUFF SCRATCHES FROM SAPPHIRE crystal]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSun, 31 Oct 2010 04:34:50 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250918,250918#msg-250918 How to REGULATE A MECHANICAL WATCH FOR BETTER ACCURACY (Beginner, link to PMWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250918,250918#msg-250918How to REGULATE A MECHANICAL WATCH FOR BETTER ACCURACY]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:34:06 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250916,250916#msg-250916 How to CHANGE WATCH BANDS and ADJUST METAL BANDS (Beginner, Interactive Tutorial at Yahoo) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250916,250916#msg-250916How to CHANGE WATCH BANDS and ADJUST METAL BANDS]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:23:49 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250915,250915#msg-250915 How to REPLACE A SCRATCHED BEZEL INSERT (Talented Beginner, link to forum post) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250915,250915#msg-250915How to REPLACE A SCRATCHED BEZEL INSERT]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:20:59 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250914,250914#msg-250914 How to REMOVE THE MOVEMENT from a watch (Talented Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250914,250914#msg-250914How to REMOVE THE MOVEMENT from a watch]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:19:20 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250913,250913#msg-250913 How to REMOVE WATCH HANDS and DIAL (Talented Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250913,250913#msg-250913How to REMOVE WATCH HANDS and DIAL]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:18:06 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250912,250912#msg-250912 How to RELUME WATCH HANDS (Advanced, link to forum post) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250912,250912#msg-250912How to RELUME WATCH HANDS]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:16:38 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250911,250911#msg-250911 How to work with a SPRING-BAR FORK TOOL (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250911,250911#msg-250911How to work with a SPRING-BAR FORK TOOL]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:14:28 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250910,250910#msg-250910 How to REFURBISH SATIN-BRUSHED BRACELETS to look like new again (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250910,250910#msg-250910How to REFURBISH SATIN-BRUSHED BRACELETS to look like new again]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:13:13 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250909,250909#msg-250909 How to ADD EXTRA HOLES to a Nylon [NATO] watch strap (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250909,250909#msg-250909How to ADD EXTRA HOLES to a Nylon [NATO] watch strap]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:12:04 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250908,250908#msg-250908 How to ADJUST or SIZE SPLIT-PIN BRACELETS to your wrist size (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250908,250908#msg-250908How to ADJUST or SIZE SPLIT-PIN BRACELETS to your wrist size

Note: you do not necessarily need the bracelet sizing tool shown in this tutorial. You could also use a pin pusher e.g.]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:10:22 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250907,250907#msg-250907 How to make a BRACELET CLASP LOCK FIRMLY again (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250907,250907#msg-250907How to make a BRACELET CLASP LOCK FIRMLY again]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:07:52 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250906,250906#msg-250906 How to ADJUST or SIZE PIN COLLAR bracelets [SEIKO Monster SKX779, Samurai SBDA001] (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250906,250906#msg-250906How to ADJUST or SIZE PIN COLLAR bracelets [SEIKO Monster SKX779, Samurai SBDA001]]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:06:11 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250905,250905#msg-250905 How to ADJUST or SIZE THE MOST COMMON BRACELETS for your wrist (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250905,250905#msg-250905How to ADJUST or SIZE THE MOST COMMON BRACELETS for your wrist]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:03:58 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250904,250904#msg-250904 How to ADJUST A FLEXIBLE watch band (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250904,250904#msg-250904How to ADJUST A FLEXIBLE watch band

Note: most flexible watch bands feature the design shown in this tutorial. However, there are variants existing. Reading this tutorial might still give you the hints needed to complete the task]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 07:02:02 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250903,250903#msg-250903 How to CHANGE THE BATTERY of a MechaQuartz IWC Caliber 631 (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250903,250903#msg-250903How to CHANGE THE BATTERY of a MechaQuartz IWC Caliber 631]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 06:59:27 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250901,250901#msg-250901 How to REPLACE THE CAPACITOR of a SEIKO Kinetic 5M42, 5M22, 5M23, 5M43 (Beginner, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250901,250901#msg-250901How to REPLACE THE CAPACITOR of a SEIKO Kinetic 5M42, 5M22, 5M23, 5M43

Note: The part number 30235MZ (replacement capacitor kit) might not be readily available in all countries. However, you can most likely find them online [eBay] at a fair price, USD 10 to 20]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 06:57:20 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250900,250900#msg-250900 How to REPLACE AN ACRYLIC CRYSTAL of a [Pocket] Watch (Intermediate, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250900,250900#msg-250900How to REPLACE AN ACRYLIC CRYSTAL of a [Pocket] Watch]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 06:53:48 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250898,250898#msg-250898 How to OPEN UNUSUAL WATCH CASES (Intermediate, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250898,250898#msg-250898How to OPEN UNUSUAL WATCH CASES]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 06:52:20 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250897,250897#msg-250897 How to SERVICE a SEIKO chronograph Cal. 6138 (Pictorial, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250897,250897#msg-250897How to SERVICE a SEIKO chronograph Cal. 6138

Note: this is a picture series rather then a step by step instruction. It might still contain valuable clues on how to perform the task]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 06:50:00 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250895,250895#msg-250895 How to SERVICE a hand wind A.Schild AS 1130 (Pictorial, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250895,250895#msg-250895How to SERVICE a hand wind A.Schild AS 1130

Note: this is a picture series rather then a step by step instruction. It might still contain valuable clues on how to perform the task]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 06:48:50 -0400 http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250893,250893#msg-250893 How to USE A ULTRA-SONIC CLEANING MACHINE (Intermediate, link to RWC) >>> (no replies)http://www.pmwf.com/Phorum/read.php?58,250893,250893#msg-250893How to USE A ULTRA-SONIC CLEANING MACHINE]]> Reto Watchmaking TutorialsSat, 23 Oct 2010 06:45:05 -0400