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New to Collecting? A Guide for the Beginning Watch Collector
© Jeremy O’Kelly 2005
Know Yourself
Building My Want List
Retail Outlets
Online Retailers
Watch Forums
Specialized Websites
Print Resources - Books
Refining the Want List
Watch Types
Materials
Movements
Watch Styles
A Word on Condition
Like the opening stages of a romantic relationship, it is easy for the beginning collector to be blinded by the lure of the new, exotic, and exciting. The last bit of advice a new collector is likely to want to hear is nonetheless important – take your time. The more information a collector possesses, the more likely his acquisitions are to be satisfying, and the more apt they are to be lasting additions to a collection, instead of being quickly resold for a more desirable piece.
To this day, I have problems taking my own advice. Because I am interested in a wide variety of collectables, and because I start new collections frequently, I have fallen prone to a rush to buy time and again. I think one reason for this is due to my temperament – I can tend to be impulsive. As a collector, this is not necessarily a desirable trait. It is important to recognize your own temperament when beginning as a collector. Are you impulsive? Easily excited by the collecting focuses of others, and anxious to build a similar collection as quickly as possible? Or are you methodical, and have a disposition more open to thoughtful collecting? Knowing your own tendencies from the outset can help you build a collecting strategy that will help you tailor your approach a s a collector, and optimize your success.
For example, after becoming interested in wristwatches, I tried to mitigate my propensity to gathering items too quickly by instituting a system I called “virtual collecting”. Knowing that I have bought items too rapidly in the past, only to sell them later (and unfortunately sometimes at a loss) in order to get truly collectable pieces, I began to keep a detailed list of items I thought were desirable, in the form of a computerized spreadsheet. I included information such as the manufacturer, model, list price, best price actual price, and a picture of the item I had downloaded from the internet.
I maintained several lists in my spreadsheet database. One was the current ‘Want List’. Another was the ‘No Longer Want’ list - items I had once listed in the Want List, but were later replaced by choices that would better suit my collection. Finally, I maintained a ‘Have’ list, of items in my collection, which also included the price I had actually paid and the source I ultimately purchased from.
I refrained from buying an item until it had been on my list for several months. I found that over time, many items I initially thought I couldn’t live without were later replaced with pieces that were better suited to my taste. Some were removed as I found model I didn’t know existed, and had features, complications, and styling I liked better. Others remained on the Want List, but with added notations. Often, in time I found better prices and suppliers for watches I wanted, or interesting variations in case materials, bracelets, or dial colors.
This is just one approach to collecting, tailored to my understanding of my collecting habits. Certainly there are as many collecting strategies as there are collectors, but in the end, having a feel for your personality can help you build a collecting method for your madness.
There are many sources of information available to a collector. Identification of information resources is vital for the new collector. These resources vary from knowledgeable dealers and collectors, to print and internet. Some resources involve buying information, but many are free – and invaluable.
Virtually every mall in the world will have retail vendors for your collectable of choice. For watch collectors, department stores, jewelry stores, and specialty stores are often the places where a collector is first introduced to the object of their obsession. While accessible, these retailers are not necessarily the best place to make your first purchase.
Department stores generally stock a small variety of watches, which they can sell at a reasonable rate and with a favorable profit margin. These stores can be a good place to see several types of watches, and get some idea of popular styling. Most department stores focus on quartz watches because the majority of the non-collecting population find quartz to be accurate, inexpensive, and relatively maintenance-free. Some department stores may have a few mechanical or alternately powered watches (such as solar or mechanical-quartz hybrid types like Seiko Kinetic™ watches) – but most have a very limited selection of these types.
Looking at these stores can help a collector form initial impressions of what general size, style, and materials interest them, and most department stores are very approachable for the beginner, and are very willing to let the buyer try on many different watches. However, because of the limited selection and focus on profit margin, these stores rarely offer the best pricing. Also, a watch bought at a department store is typically covered primarily by the manufacturer’s warranty, and any difficulties
Jewelry stores are another common place for the beginning collector to get hands-on experience with watches. Typically, jewelry stores will carry a slightly higher tier of watches, but often limit their selection to a few manufacturers with whom they have a retail agreement. In some, but not all cases, these jewelers may be “Authorized Dealers” (AD) for the lines they sell. Authorized dealers often have access to the entire line for the makers they represent, and can act as points of contact for service issues. Most watch manufacturers will only honor warranties on items purchased at their authorized dealers. In exchange, the retailer often agrees to pricing guidelines, limiting the extent to which their lines can be discounted (this amount varies from manufacturer to manufacturer). For example, the markdown to be had from Authorized Rolex dealers is often rather slight, while Omega AD’s generally have a little more latitude in discounting.
It is important to know if the retailer is an AD for the lines they sell, and what that means for the buyer. One other ‘service’ often offered by jewelry stores is financing. This is typically through a third party creditor, and can be at very high (20%+) interest rates. Most collectors avoid this option, as it almost insures that the watch will cost more than they will ever recoup from a subsequent sale.
Specialty stores can also be found in most places where retail stores congregate. They can range from small shops offering lower tier, mostly quartz watches (these are the kind commonly found in shopping malls in the US) – to huge stores with a vast variety like Tourneau and Wempe. These are great places to see watches in the flesh, and get a good sense of the range of styles and options on the market. Like jewelry stores, specialty stores can be somewhat intimidating to the beginner. Don’t be hesitant! Ask to see items that interest you, and try on what ever strikes your fancy.
Be aware that there is no guarantee that sales staff at jewelry and specialty stores are ACTUALLY KNOWLEDGEABLE. In most cases, a collector with any degree of sophistication will have an equal or greater knowledge base than sales people. When you meet a sales person that seems to know what they are talking about, and you later verify what they tell you through other channels, remember their name. When you return to shop again, ask for those in the shop who you have confirmed are competent.
Specialty shops, like jewelry stores, may or may not be ADs for the lines they carry. All of the information above pertaining to jewelry store ADs likewise applies to specialty shops. Larger specialty shops that are not ADs for all of the lines that they sell may offer a warranty for watches they sell – these should be considered as in lieu of, not in addition to, manufacturer’s warranties. Again, manufacturer’s warranties are generally only valid for items purchased from ADs.
A subset of the specialty shop category is the Factory Outlet. A few manufacturers have outlet stores, Seiko among them. Other manufacturers, such as Sinn, will sell direct from the factory if you visit them. These stores will have an extensive collection of the lines by their manufacturer, and may offer discounts beyond what might be found at other retail outlets.
The internet is awash with watch sellers. It can be difficult to determine if the sellers are ADs, so-called ‘Grey Market’ dealers, or are individuals who have no physical store location. Increasingly, watch manufacturers are combating dealers who are not Authorized (‘Grey Market’ dealers) by prohibiting ADs from posting actual selling prices online.
Many brick and mortar dealers who are ADs sell through the internet in addition to selling from their storefronts. Often, they will display the MSRP or ‘list’ price on their web site, and ask that you call for their best pricing. This is often because they are ADs who agree not to advertise discounted prices so that the manufacturer’s product is resistant to devaluation. If you are buying a new piece, and warranty coverage is important to you, an AD is probably the best way to go.
However, if price is your bottom line, a grey market dealer may be just the thing for you. Many of these dealers are ever bit as reputable as jewelry stores or specialty shops – but they are able to offer greater discounts than ADs due to their lack of a binding agreement with the manufacturer, and also because they can often operate on a smaller profit margin. Also, online dealers offer the best variety of vintage and discontinued models. Some allow trades and are more flexible about the method of payment.
The bottom line with any seller is the old chestnut “Buy the seller”. If you are interested in a watch from an online seller, ask for references. Other sources of information pertaining to these sellers may are also available on the internet, as will be discussed later.
By far, the best resource for the watch collector on the internet is the accessibility of other collectors, and their accumulated knowledge. Watch forums are virtual bulletin boards where collectors gather to show their collections, ask for seller references and trade and sell their own watches. After visiting stores, both physical and online, to get some ideas of what is out there, the budding collector should turn to the forums for a focusing of their watch collecting interests.
There are several types of “fora” on the internet. Some are dedicated to the products of a specific manufacturer(s). One good example of this type is the Seiko and Citizen Watch Forum (SCWF). Another is On The Dash , which focuses on vintage Heuer chronographs. This type of site is the ideal starting place for someone who intends to focus on a narrow range of brands, or who is looking for in-depth information.
Another type of forum is that dedicated to a collecting segment. For example, the Poor Man’s Watch Forum (PMWF), caters to collectors of “Watches (mostly) under $1000”; The Purists focus on higher-end watch brands ranging from $1000 to hundreds of thousands of dollars. All of these forums contain links to watch resources to be found elsewhere on the internet, and both have “Sales Forums” associated with them that allow people interested in their respective collecting segments to buy and sell their watches to each other. Many times, some of the best and safest watch deals to be had online are through venues like these.
Sites such as the Military Watch Resource define their collecting segment not by brand or cost, but by function. Upon initially turning to the forums, it is a safe bet that the beginning collector will soon be inundated with watch designs and manufacturers which he didn’t know existed.
Other forums are omnibus sites that contain long lists of sub-forums for different collecting interests. Two of the most popular sites fitting this category are Watch-U-Seek (WUS) and Timezone (TZ). In addition to fora, Timezone has watch reviews and short columns on all sorts of watch related topics.
In my experience, members of watch forums are very friendly and helpful. They typically enjoy welcoming new collectors to the field and sharing the details of their timepieces. Simple good manners are generally the only etiquette needed to have a successful visit to any of these sites, although some sales and trading forums have more specific guidelines that should be followed. Many of the sites have Frequently Asked Questions sections (FAQs), which should be consulted on the initial visit.
The internet is filled with the homepages of collectors, and sites dedicated to specific collecting interests. Doing an internet search on any aspect of watch collecting will yield long lists of sites to peruse. Manufacturers also host websites displaying their lines.
One omnibus site that stands out, with hundreds of links to watch related sites and reference material is Chuck’s Watch & Horology Page . Here, Chuck Maddox kindly collects enough links for years of browsing.
There are many books on clock and watch collecting, as well as horology (the science of time, timekeeping, and timekeepers), both technical and historical. Unfortunately, libraries tend to overlook this hobby, so it may be necessary to buy the books on your own. Also, many of these are geared to collectors of very specific interests.
Below are a few books that are good for the beginner. For a good start, without breaking the bank, look into the two in bold.
Miller's: Wristwatches : How to Compare and Value by Jonathan Scatchard
This is a very cursory look at the major categories of watches, and a few collectable brands. A good browsing-while-in-the-store book for the rank beginner.
Collecting & Repairing Watches by Max Cutmore
Goes a bit into the theory of operation of watches, and highlights some collectable watches. Relatively inexpensive, I’d buy this one first.
Revolution in Time: Clocks and the Making of the Modern World by David S. Landes
An in-depth look at the evolution of timekeeping, detailing technological advances. Very good historical framework for any collector.
Complete Price Guide To Watches by Cooksey Shugart
The most frequently cited price guide. Useful, but not terribly inexpensive – this is a good choice for an intermediate collector.
Marking Time: Collecting Watches - and Thinking about Time by Michael Korda
Now out-of-print, it can still be found on used book websites like Bookfinder (or perhaps on Barnes and Noble remainder tables). A pleasant introduction to watch collecting, although not everyone will agree with all of Korda’s assertions.
It is easy to sock a lot of money into books about watches, but many of them have many pictures, but little useful content – or worse, are essentially advertising by another name (as I feel some of the ‘Watch Annuals’ are). Try to keep your library useful and relevant, and save the rest for watches!
We have addressed two of the biggest hurdles in watch collecting – where to find watches, and where to find information about watches. As the collector explores these resources, some concept of the direction he or she intends to take with the new collection has probably begun to take shape. There are many questions a collector can ask in building the framework for their collection.
Foremost, what to collect? Some collectors choose a very narrow area of interest. Some collectors believe that for a collection to be relevant it must be tightly focused and add to the body of horological knowledge. Others think this is an elitist approach, and prefer to collect ‘whatever makes them happy’.
One benefit both types of collector can share is that watch collecting gives the collector not only an aesthetic satisfaction from the beauty of the pieces themselves, but also provides the collector with a functional collection as well. Whereas many collections, such as art or coins, are interesting for their beauty, watches provide the added benefit that they are made to be used. Considering both of these attributes is important during collection building, and allows the owner to gather functional art. Whatever the focus, the watch collector can and should use their collection.
In deciding what to collect, the collector should begin by setting realistic budgetary guidelines. Not everyone has the means to breathe the rarified air of a vintage Patek Philippe collector, but thankfully interesting collections can be made for modest means. Determining up front a ballpark figure for the pieces in the collection can help focus the collecting interest.
Once price range is determined, a general census of watch attributes that one finds desirable is useful. Factors to consider include watch types, materials, movements, and styles.
Do you like digital, quartz analog, or mechanical watches? Or do you want your collection to incorporate all three? What complications appeal to you? Do you want chronographs, alarms, or watches with two digit large dates? Do you want to collect by purpose – military, dive, or dress watches?
Some collectors solve this problem by becoming Type collectors. A type collector might buy one watch that fills each of the desired niches chosen. Many collectors start this process before consciously taking up collecting, by buying a watch for the office, one for working outdoors, one for dress, and a ‘sporty’ casual wear watch. Others narrow the collection to one type up front, e.g. diving watches.
Once the type(s) of watches to collect has been given some thought, watch materials can be considered. Do you prefer plastic sports watches, steel watches, or watches made from precious metals? One of my favorite materials for a watch is titanium. It is light, strong, hypoallergenic, and I find it attractive. Others prefer stainless steel for its durability and its ease of maintenance, still others solid gold for its value.
One may not want to limit their collection to case material type, but it is a possible focus for a collection. Also, do you prefer straps or bracelets? Straps are interesting accessories for a watch, which can easily be changed for different occasions. Bracelets are solid and lasting, and may increase the value of a watch depending on the materials of construction.
A common focus for collections is the movement. Movements, or the ‘engine’ of a watch, are the technical wonders of mechanical engineering that many collectors find consuming. One specific movement, such as the mechanical ETA 2824-2, can be found in a wide variety of watch styles and case materials. A collection could easily consist of ten different watches, from different manufacturers, but with all being driven by the same model movement.
As with watch types, movements can be collected on a type basis: a collector may choose to have each watch in their collection housing a different movement. For example, a collection may have one ETA 2824-2, one Valjoux 7750, one Lemania 5100, one ETA 2836, one Poljot 3133, and one Unitas movement-equipped watch, all from different manufacturers and all in different styles.
The variety of shapes, colors, and design elements to be found in the watch world is nothing short of amazing – and when combined with the technological feats that make the watch go, provide almost limitless variety for the collector.
What shape watch case interests you? Tonneau? Circular? Tank? Non-conventional shapes? The style of a watch provides a significant amount of its aesthetic appeal. As with other factors in building a collection, one can include as narrow or as broad a range of styles as is desired. Like other segments of the fashion industry, watch styles and sizes go in and out of vogue. Vintage designs make resurgences, and avant-garde designs turn heads. There are also classics – timeless styles that will be desirable always. Where a collector chooses to place their focus is limited only by their imagination.
When it comes time to buy a piece, a good rule of thumb to follow for collectors of any stripe is buy the best you can afford. Like rare books or other collectables, the condition of the items in a collection adds to or subtracts from the intrinsic value of the collection. Often, saving for a nicer piece rather than buying a worn one will actually save the collector money in the long run. The buyer is less likely to feel the need to replace items in poorer condition as the collection matures.
An interesting side note on watch collecting: the assembly and use of a collection of watches can provide you with lifelong enjoyment. While non-collectors might not bat an eye at your vintage Minerva that you wear to work on Fridays, when you run across that fellow collector you may get a second look, and make a new friend with whom to share your collecting passion.
Compiled by Jeremy O'Kelly in July 2005